Vegetables
Perennial plants that look like cabbage but come back every year are the ultimate game-changer. đ± I spent years growing annual cabbages, only to lose them to frost each winterâuntil I discovered these cold-hardy alternatives that regrow naturally, saving time and frustration.
The key difference is in their roots: these perennials develop strong crowns that survive winter, while annual cabbages die back completely. Ornamental kales, skirret, and some brassicas fit the bill perfectly, offering the same bold foliage without the annual replanting hassle.
You'll get that familiar cabbage-like texture and flavor in your salads, but with plants that multiply over time. By spring, you'll have lush, established clumps ready to harvest againâno seed packets or seedlings required. Perfect for gardeners who want low-maintenance greens that thrive in cold climates.
Here's how to grow them like a pro!
📚 In This Guide
- What you need
- Instructions
- Tips and common mistakes
- Wrapping up and next steps
What you need
- ● Perennial cabbage-like plants (e.g., Pachysandra terminalis, Skimmia japonica, or Celtis australisâcheck local climate suitability).
- ● High-quality potting mix (sterile, well-draining blendâ2-3 cubic feet per plant).
- ● Garden soil amendment (compost or aged manureâ1-2 gallons per planting hole).
- ● Organic fertilizer (balanced 10-10-10 or slow-release granularâ1 tbsp per plant).
- ● Mulch (wood chips or strawâ2-3 inches to retain moisture).
- ● Garden trowel or spade (for diggingâ6-8 inches wide).
- ● Pruning shears (sharp, 4-6 inch blades for trimming).
- ● Watering can or hose with nozzle (gentle spray setting for seedlings).
- ● Garden gloves (nitrile-coated for durability).
- ○ pH testing kit (optional but helpfulâideal range: 6.0-7.0).
- ● Sunlight: Partial shade to full sun (6+ hours/day for most varieties).
- ● Climate zone: USDA Zones 4-9 (cold-hardy perennials thrive here!).
- ● Water source: Consistent moisture (drip irrigation or hand-watering 2-3x/week).
- ● Spacious planting area: 12-18 inches apart for mature growth.
Step-by-Step guide to cultivating cold-hardy cabbage-like perennials
These resilient plants thrive year after yearâhereâs how to establish them for long-term harvests.
đ± Step 1: Select and Prepare the Planting Site
Choose a location with full sun to partial shade and well-draining soilâthese perennials hate soggy roots. I always test soil pH first (aim for 6.0-7.02-3 inches of compost and mix it into the top 6 inches of soil.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 inches with a broadfork or tillerâthis prevents compaction and encourages deep root development. If your site has poor drainage, create raised beds or mounds to improve airflow around the roots. These plants reward patience with years of regrowth, so invest time in the prep.
đż Step 2: Plant Transplants or Divide Established Clumps
For transplants, space plants 18-24 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart to allow airflow and reduce disease risk. Dig holes just deep enough to accommodate the root ball without burying the crown too deeplyâthis ensures healthy regrowth each season. Water each hole thoroughly before planting.
If dividing established clumps, select healthy plants with multiple stems and dig them up in early spring. Separate the roots gently into sections with at least 3-4 leaves per division. Replant immediately in the prepared soil, watering deeply to settle the roots. These perennials thrive when divided every 3-4 years, so plan ahead for long-term productivity.
âïž Step 3: Provide Consistent Care for Year-Round Growth
Water deeply 1-2 times per week, ensuring the soil stays moist but not waterloggedâespecially during the first growing season. Mulch with 2-3 inches of straw or shredded leaves to retain moisture and suppress weeds. I always remove mulch in late winter to allow soil to warm for early spring regrowth.
Fertilize lightly in early spring with a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10) or compost tea to encourage new growth. Avoid heavy nitrogen applicationsâthese plants need steady nutrients, not sudden spikes. Watch for yellowing leaves, which signal over-fertilization or poor drainage.
âïž Step 4: Prune and Harvest Strategically
Harvest outer leaves first to encourage continuous regrowthânever take more than 1/3 of the plant at once. Use clean, sharp shears to avoid damaging the center. In late fall, cut back dead foliage to 2 inches above ground level to protect the crown from winter damage.
Prune leggy stems in early spring to redirect energy to leaf production. I always remove any flower stalks that appearâthese plants focus energy on foliage, not seed production. With proper care, youâll see new growth within 2-3 weeks of pruning, signaling the plantâs resilience.
â° Step 5: Protect Over Winter for Next Yearâs Growth
In cold climates, mound 4-6 inches of straw or leaves around the base of plants after the first hard frost. This insulation prevents heaving and protects the crown from freezing. In mild winters, a light mulch layer sufficesâthese perennials handle frost better than annual cabbage.
Remove winter mulch in early spring once soil temperatures rise above 40°F. Water lightly to encourage new shoots, and watch for the first flush of growth. With proper winter care, these plants return stronger each year, rewarding your patience with abundant harvests.
Tips & tricks for perfect cold-hardy perennial cultivation
These resilient plants reward patienceâhereâs how to maximize their long-term success and avoid common pitfalls.
Soil Preparation Secret: Beyond the 2-3 inches of compost mentioned in Step 1, I recommend adding a handful of worm castings to the planting hole. These provide immediate microbial activity that helps roots establish faster, especially in cooler climates. The deep 12-inch soil loosening is crucialâdonât skip this even if your soil looks loose on top.
Planting Depth Matters: When planting transplants in Step 2, the crown should sit just above soil levelânever buried. Iâve seen many gardeners bury the crown too deeply, which leads to rot. For divided clumps, make sure each section has at least 3-4 leaves to ensure vigorous regrowth. The 3-4 year division cycle is ideal, but you can divide every 2 years if needed for propagation.
Watering Wisdom: The 1-2 times per week guideline in Step 3 works best with deep wateringâaim for 1 inch of water per session. I use a rain gauge to track this accurately. In hot weather, increase to 2 times per week, but always check soil moisture before watering. Overhead watering can spread disease, so water at the base instead.
Winter Protection Pro Tip: For the 4-6 inches of winter mulch in Step 5, I recommend using straw over leavesâit breaks down more slowly and provides better insulation. In extremely cold climates (below 0°F), add an extra layer of burlap over the mulch for added protection. Remove mulch when soil temps consistently stay above 40°F in spring, not before.
Pro Tips for Cabbage Looking Perennial
- These resilient plants reward patienceâhereâs how to maximize their long-term success and avoid common pitfalls.
- Soil Preparation Secret: Beyond the 2-3 inches of compost mentioned in Step 1, I recommend adding a handful of worm castings to the planting hole.
- Planting Depth Matters: When planting transplants in Step 2, the crown should sit just above soil levelânever buried.
Frequently asked questions
Got questions about growing cabbage-looking perennials? Youâre not alone! Here are answers to the most common queries to help you cultivate these cold-hardy, regrowing wonders with confidence.
What are the best cabbage-looking perennials for beginners?
Start with kale (like âWinterborâ or âLacinatoâ) or Swiss chard (e.g., âBright Lightsâ). Both are forgiving, productive, and handle cold better than annual cabbage. Perpetual spinach (e.g., âBloomsdale Long Standingâ) is another great pickâit regrows after harvests and thrives in cooler climates!
How cold can these perennials tolerate before dying back?
Most cabbage-looking perennials survive 10â20°F (-12 to -7°C) with protection (mulch, row covers). Kale and Swiss chard often regrow from the roots after winter, while perpetual spinach may yellow but bounce back in spring. Hardier varieties (like âWinterborâ kale) can handle even colder snaps!
How long does it take for cut-and-come-again harvests to regrow?
With proper care, expect regrowth in 2â4 weeks after cutting outer leaves (never the center!). Avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of the plant at once. Swiss chard and kale are faster regrowers, while spinach may take slightly longer. Water consistently and fertilize lightly (compost tea works great!) to speed up recovery.
Can I grow these perennials in containers or small spaces?
Choose dwarf varieties like âDwarf Blue Curledâ kale or âFordhook Giantâ perpetual spinach. Use 5â8 gallon pots with well-draining soil and ensure they get 6+ hours of sun. Containers dry out fasterâwater daily in hot weather. Just avoid overcrowding to prevent disease.
What pests should I watch for, and how do I prevent them?
Common culprits include cabbage worms, aphids, and slugs. Preventative tips:
- Use row covers early in the season to block pests.
- Handpick worms or spray with neem oil (safe for edibles!).
- Set up beer traps for slugs or use diatomaceous earth around plants.
- Interplant with garlic, thyme, or nasturtiums to deter insects.
Wrapping up and next steps
Discovering cabbage-looking perennials opens up a world of low-maintenance, cold-hardy greens that keep coming back year after yearâno replanting required! đ± Whether you're drawn to kale, Swiss chard, or collard greens, these plants are your ticket to a resilient garden that thrives even in cooler climates.
With the right care, theyâll reward you with bold flavors, vibrant colors, and endless harvests.
Ready to dive in? Start by selecting your favorite perennial green, gather your supplies, and give these cold-loving plants the love they deserve. Plant a seed todayâyour future self (and taste buds) will thank you! đż
